Arepas de Heuvo 02.28.2011

I would be remiss in not telling you about Gledis.  She is a cook in Cartagena and over the course of our time there, we tried a lot of her cooking.  She made the cilantro sauce on our first day, and I spent one morning with her so she could teach me to make arepas.


Arepas are eaten for breakfast in Colombia and Venezuela, and made out of ground corn.  Arepas also can include an egg -- arepas de heuvo -- or other ingredients.  I wanted to learn how to make arepas de heuvo because, well, they are divine.


Arepas are fried -- twice.  There is nothing healthy about this dish, except that you have a deep sense of satisfaction after you eat it.  When I eat arepas de heuvo, I splash a little hot sauce on top.


Okay, so here are arepas de heuvo, step-by-step.  While you are whipping up the dough and making other preparations, also have a medium-sized pot of oil on the stove.  The arepas are going to be fired and will need room to float and fluff up.  The oil should be at a boil, but not furious.


Take about two cups corn flour and combine with a little water until doughy.





Chop a small red onion and a tomato and combine with salt and pepper.  This mixture will be spooned into each arepa.



 Let the dough sit for a few minutes and check to see if it the texture is still doughy, not sticky. 



Fry up the onions and tomatoes in a little bit of oil and stir.



Work the dough again with your hands.


Pull some of the dough and roll into a ball.  The ball should be little over an inch in diameter.


Put out a plastic bag -- saran wrap will not work -- and put a little oil on it, and spread it around with your hands.



Place the ball of dough on to the plastic surface.





Cover half the plastic sheet over the ball.




Flatten with a cutting board.





Voila! 



Once you have a few of these corn flour discs on hand, begin frying them.  Each arepa should fluff up a bit, creating a dome and some room in between the top and bottom layers.  It doesn't have to be a lot of room -- just enough for you to cut in there later and insert an egg and the onion and tomato mixture. 


Once the arepas have fluffed up, let them sit in a steel colander to drain and cool.


You will fill each arepa individually before frying, so stack up a few before beginning this next step.  Crack each egg into a small measuring cup with a spout.


Then cut a one-to-two-inch slit into the arepa.


Put a teaspoon of the onion and tomato mixture through the cut.


 Pour in the egg.


And back it goes into the bubbling oil.  Some of the egg does pour out.  For the arepas where a significant amount of egg had come out, Gledis put them aside; they did not make the final cut.


 Let the egg-filled arepas drain in the colander, and then they're ready. 


I love arepas with hot sauce, but Gledis made concoction:  a few tablespoons of yogurt or sour cream, and a few teaspoons of zippy salsa.







This is the salsa Gledis used.



This is our breakfast table.  I put the yogurt mixture on top of the arepa, and when I cut into it, the yolk poured out.  Fabulous.  Gledis also made a few arepas with nothing in them, and a few with cheese.

Club de Pesca: I Did It for the Universe 02.26.2011

The day most of the birthday party guests left Cartagena, I went through party withdrawal.  So many conversations yet to finish, so many people I hadn't even had conversations with -- where did the time go??  But, I rallied.  I decided it was in the best interest of the universe that I continue to have fun.

Monday night, Eric and I went on a date night to Club de Pesca, which is located outside the Old City and right on the water.  Our taxi driver took us on a twist-and-turn route through iffy neighborhoods that I wished I could walk through; I was sure there was more exceptional food to be found there. 

When we arrived at the restaurant, there were hardly any diners.  Such is the case when Americans arrive at the too-early dinner hour of 7:30 p.m.  We were seated outside with a fantastic view of the new part of Cartagena: tall buildings lit up, and in front, boats passing back and forth.

After we ordered our meal, more people appeared and by the time we were at our main course, the place was packed and there were all decibels of chatter.  

I started with Scallops con Pimienta Verde y Mermelada de Setas (scallops with green pepper and mushroom jam).  What was so striking about this dish was cut-in-half green peppercorns in the sauce.  I was wickedly happy every time I bit into one.  The scallops were fine, but the sauce really stole the show.  There was enough to scoop on to torn bread -- fantastic!

Next came the Cazuela de Mariscos Boquilla (traditional fish soup with coconut and cilantro).  After I removed the large pieces of sea creatures that still had their heads intact, I consumed all of the soup -- it was so delicious.  Flavors of lobster, squid, and other fish were mixed so well with the coconut milk and cilantro.  I also used the bread to dip into the soup. 

I had not paid attention to Eric's appetizer, but I noticed halfway through our main course that he was not saying anything about the food.  Not a good sign, and with good reason.  He had gotten the crab risotto for his main course and it was terrible.  There was no flavor -- none.  The disparity was odd.

We drank white wine throughout the meal and kept going back to the basket of fresh bread with basil butter on the side.  I added to my list of culinary goals:  learn to make basil butter.

I have not mentioned in any of my Cartagena posts how out-of-the world the customer service is here.  Incredible.  Everyone has been intent on our happiness.  What a concept.