A Washington, DC Dining Room 08.08.2013

I recently walked into the dining room at the home of my friends Rob and Lucy and had to catch my breath: the chandelier was breathtaking.  This is the Caboche Suspension Lamp designed by Patricia Urquilo (a Spanish designer) and Eliana Gerotto (an Italian designer), and made by the Italian lighting company Foscarini.  

I'm no expert on lighting or lighting fixtures, but I know when a room feels good, and Rob and Lucy's dining room feels really good. 

The suspension lamp is a recent acquisition in their home, but it wasn't easy getting it.  First, the couple had to get on the same page about the lamp:  Lucy liked it more than Rob, but eventually they both agreed.  Then, there was a wait list that went on for months.  Finally, it arrived and after two adjustments made by the electrician, it was in.  And now?  The whole room looks spectacular and warm at the same time. 

There is a mid-century feel (my favorite kind of feel) to the polymethylmetacrylate bubbles, but it could easily fit into a retro or ultra modern space.  Click HERE to watch a brief video of the designers talking about how the lamp is inspired by a '30s woman's bracelet.

Rob and Lucy found the table (made in Burma) in Thailand and shipped it here.  I have been fortunate to sit at that table a number of times and eat really wonderful, satisfying food. Both Rob and Lucy are great cooks and have no fear approaching adventurous food.  The last meal I had at their home ended with homemade beignets:  who does that?!

I saw a table lamp version of the suspension lamp in the Showtime series "Ray Donovan".  In episode six, one of the characters is getting it on with a lady who is trying to get his genetic material and boom!  There they are:  two Caboche table lamps.  (The lamps, obviously, are not the point of that scene.)

By the way, if you're not watching "Ray Donovan" you are missing out.  Even if it wasn't for the compelling storyline, interesting characters, and tremendous acting, it would only take the following two words to get me to watch this show:  Liev Schreiber.  He had me at "The Daytrippers".

Have an interesting dining room story?  A space that's gone through an evolution through years of uncertainty and angst?  Send it to me:  Four4Courses@gmail.com.  No more than a page with a photo.

Previous posts from the Dining Room series:

A Bethesda Dining Room

A New England Dining Room

A Dining Table in New York

A Dining Table in Maryland

This Blog Post Is Not About Food, But You Need to Read It 05.18.2013

Last week, we attended a party and art auction to benefit a DC organization that has become rather dear to my heart: Project Create.

Executive Director Christie Walser (R) chatting with
guests at the 5th Annual Project Create Art Auction.

Project Create provides after school arts education classes to children who are homeless or in transitional housing in Washington, DC – how do you not support that?  I know there are so many problems in the world, and wherever you are, I hope you are doing something about the problems in your backyard.  And here is what’s happening in my backyard:

There are 114,000 children in Washington, DC.  Of those 35,000 live in poverty and receive food stamps.   21,000 of those children live in extreme poverty and 1,800 are homeless.   And it is the poorest of the poor – the homeless or those in extreme poverty – that Project Create serves. 

My friend Christie Walser became Executive Director of Project Create almost three years ago so there was that interest.  But now I know and believe in what Project Create strives to do and I love it. Through Project Create, children who are in extreme poverty or are homeless have access to semester-long classes of visual or performing arts classes, art field trips, and exhibitions and performances within their communities.  

Art is so many different things to different people: it’s therapy, pleasure, work, a gift, a distraction… for the kids that Project Create serves, it’s an opportunity and a chance.  It’s one less hour in a week spent doing nothing or being on the street or fighting or struggling.  It’s one hour thinking, imagining, creating, and expressing.  It’s one hour of opportunity and chance that has profound potential to lead to so much more. 

Christie Walser speaking to the crowd about Project Create.

So, why am I writing about Project Create on my foodie blog?  For one thing, it’s my blog.  I can do whatever I want.  But listening to Christie speak about how little these children have and how much they deserve a chance, I wanted to spread the message beyond the space of my arms.  I want you to help.

Children who come from homeless families don’t have to miss out on creating.  They don’t have to grow up to be homeless adults.  They can have something better and we all know that.  We – as a community – can take the smallest of steps to change their lives.

For the benefit, artists donated work for auction, the proceeds from which go directly to Project Create programming.  My favorite piece was “The Gray Man” by Will Schneider-White.  I was outbid numerous times.  I’m sad not to have the piece in my house, but very happy to have driven the price up to benefit Project Create.

You missed this year’s auction – which, by the way, had tremendous food, wine, and music – and I promise to give you a heads up next year.  In the mean time, make a donation.  Small, big, whatever you want.  It’s tax deductible and it’s for a good cause. 

Depriving children of opportunities and chances is a gross negligence by society.  But I know one little way to fix it:  click HERE. 

“The Gray Man” by Will Schneider-White

Lunch with Andrew: ICI Urban Bistro 01.25.2011

My favorite place to sit (and eat) at ICI Urban Bistro at the Sofitel in Washington is a table for two, up against a wall, and right next to a wall panel.  So, a sort-of corner table.  There is an illusion of privacy while being open to the whole room.  If I can grab that seat, I do.

I’ve been going to the restaurant at the Sofitel – called Café 15 in its first iteration – for years.  When the restaurant changed from Café 15 to ICI Urban Bistro, the décor and style of the space changed from traditional/contemporary to sleek and modern.  It’s a soothing space in which to enjoy fantastic French food.

In the past few years when I’ve been there for lunch, I’ve ordered the “30-minute lunch” – reasonably priced, with four small-portioned courses. 

I recently met my friend Andrew there for lunch after a morning of marathon meetings.  Andrew and I have been dining together for nearly a decade and have known each other longer.   We eat, we talk, we discuss food and wine, and on occasion Andrew will vent about chargeable hours (not typical lunch conversation) or his obsessive marathon and/or triathlon training (also not typical lunch conversation).

Andrew was not at the restaurant when I arrived.  Five minutes, then 10 minutes went by after our scheduled lunch date.  Up until almost four months ago, I had worked in the same office as Andrew and knew things could come up – client matters, deadlines moved up, etc.   And knowing that he likely was in the middle of something important, I sent him the following 12 emails, in quick succession. 

Email 1:   I’m here.

Email 2:  Where the @&$! are you????

Email 3:  I can't freaking wait all day.

Email 4:  I have other things to do

Email 5:  Other people want to have lunch with me

Email 6:  What's wrong with you?!?!

Email 7:  Jesus. Christ.

Email 8:  This. Is. Outrageous.

Email 9:   If you're not here in FIVE mins, I'm leaving!!

Email 10: This is Ridiculous.

Email 11:  And don't freaking blame [name of boss].

Email 12:  You have got to be kidding me!!!

Open communication in friendship is key. 

Andrew finally arrived.

We both went with the 30-minute lunch menu, priced at $26.  This is what I ordered:

•     Appetizer -- Chantrelle Crepes (with chicken and tarragon veloute)
•     Main Course – Branzino a la Plancha (bass with Virginia farm winter squash puree and rainbow Swiss chard; espelette and pear emulsion)
•     Salad – Chioggia beets salad
•     Dessert – Mini desserts (chef’s choice)

I’ve eaten the Chantrelle Crepes before and they are divine. Creamy, warm, and just the right amount of tarragon. 

Beets are one of my favorite vegetables and as far as I’m concerned, there is no bad way to prepare them.  I do, however, have a grand love for the way the French prepare beets.  Bistro Francais in Georgetown has on top of their very simple salad small, cubed strips of beets – I would be perfectly happy eating a large bowl of cubed strips of beets. 

I digress – the beet salad at ICI was delicious.  If you’re on the fence about beets – well, first of all, that’s crazy – Chioggia beets are probably the best beets to eat.  They are from Chioggia, Italy and are known for their mild flavor.  Their color also is not the intense red, but rather pinkish.

The Branzino a la Plancha – which I’ve never eaten before – is a fish I’m not crazy about.  I decided to go with this main course because I was even less crazy about the other two options:  Moules Chorizo (no mussels, please) and Roasted Amish Chicken.  The bass turned, however, out to be satisfying. 

I must disclose that while I enjoy fish on occasion, it’s not something I crave or turn to with great enthusiasm.  The fish curries my mother made throughout my childhood burst at the seams with flavor and spice and had not one, single hint of fishiness.  Any hint of fishiness and I’m turned off.

Even though the courses in the 30-minute lunch are small, by the time we got to dessert, I was full.  I very well could have gone without diving into the desserts head first, but the desserts at ICI are expertly made and worth writing home about.  I ordered a coffee and bit away at the chocolate desserts.

What I love about the 30-minute-lunch is that all your courses arrive on one plate.  It’s simple, elegant, and so satisfying. 

And I have to rave about the customer service:  incredibly friendly and knowledgeable.

If you get to ICI before your meal begins, head over to Le Bar right across from the restaurant.  An elegant space with loungy-seating:  perfect for a glass of champagne before a meal.  Le Bar also has a menu and is great for quick bite, especially at lunch. 

Finally, if you can’t make it to ICI during the winter, you must head over there in the spring or summer time.  Eating outside (facing 15^th and H Streets) is an absolute pleasure.  ICI’s summer soup selections also are fantastic.

Blue Duck Tavern

This is another piece I wrote in 2006. I now remember why I never launched a food blog. I got pregnant, and that led to some interesting eating and low energy. And then I got pregnant again, which led to some bizarre eating and a complete lack of energy. Two kids later, I think I'm back to my old self.

This piece is about Blue Duck Tavern, which is located at the Park Hyatt Hotel in Washington, DC. I've been back there several times and enjoy it, but am satisfied by only a few dishes on the menu. I plan on going back and have yet to try the tea cellar.
_________________

I had lunch today at Blue Duck Tavern, which is located at the Park Hyatt on 24th and M Streets, NW. I know: hotel restaurant. They're tricky, but I've always been open to them and rarely have I been disappointed. After all, if you have a big meal and you're tired, you're not too far away from a bed.

The Park Hyatt has undergone renovations and I approve of each and every one. The hotel, as well as the restaurant, is minimally decorated. Lots of neutral colors, glass dividing spaces instead of walls, and lots of space: nothing is crowded. I also found the staff to be friendly and knowledgeable.

I arrived at the restaurant and sought out my friend Tom, who warned me he was in shorts -- August in Washington will bring out the most relaxed behavior in us all. I wound my way through the restaurant and found him seated in the corner in the back. Unacceptable. We asked the waiter to move us by the kitchen and he complied.

The kitchen is open, as restaurant kitchens seem to be more and more these days. It was really lovely. The French stove was massive and covered on top with stacks of frying pans. The kitchen staff and the chef were moving deliberately, preparing dishes, bringing them to a central station, where after last minute touches were made, the food was sent off on a silver tray lined in white linen. I noticed a bowl of steak frites and made a mental note to order them. When given the opportunity to enjoy frites and mayonnaise, I don't pass it up.

I had a hankering for champagne so the first order of business was to order some bubbly. It's hard to find good champagne by the glass so I was excited when the waiter told me he had Pol Roger by the glass; I love Pol Roger. The cost was $16 for the glass, which is about half and a bit more of what a full bottle costs. Tom had a glass of red wine.

I was irritated that the music was so loud and had to ask the waiter to repeat himself because I could not hear him. Is it too much to ask for some peace and quite while I'm eating? Is the restaurant attacking my senses in order to divert my attention from the food?

The menu was not massive, for which I was grateful. One needs choices, but not so many. The waiter had explained to us that the idea behind the serving style was to share the food. To start, Tom and I shared soft-shelled crab fried in batter alongside a remoulade. Delicious. We also shared the steak frites (divine -- he with mustard, I with mayonnaise). He ordered leeks, which I did not eat but he seemed to enjoy. I don't care for leeks (but do enjoy leek soup) and these leeks looked a little droopy and buttery, but not in a good way.

For the main course, I ordered trout with bacon. I had expected a disguised trout but received a trout with it's head still intact. Tom was kind enough to do the dirty work and chop off the head and tail. It was good but we both agreed (because we shared) it did not make any statements. It was tender and I wanted very much to taste the bacon but did not. It was either not strong enough or had been subdued in the cooking.

Tom ordered grits with chanterelle mushrooms and fava beans. The grits were so creamy. They were not stick-to-your-stomach grits; they were simply perfect: flowy but not too flowy.

For dessert we ordered the apple pie with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. I was assured the apple pie was warm but in fact it was not. I decided not to make a fuss. Despite it not being warm, it was fabulous. It was of substantial size and therefore perfect for two. Tom asked for an after-dinner-drink and was brought a small but full glass of a Muscat-like beverage.

In addition to the food and great view of the kitchen, Tom and I also enjoyed the people-watching, which consisted mostly of Washington-business-types and some out-of-towners probably staying at the hotel. There was a man who appeared to be in his 70s with a significantly younger woman, who was quite elegant. We pondered their relationship for a bit but decided they were father and daughter.

We left the restaurant through the hotel lobby and explored the tea cellar, which was a peaceful space. There are some teas in store that are well over $100. A woman stacking glasses in the tea cellar told us that earlier in the day a tea humidor had been delivered. I made a mental note to return for tea.

Il Mulino 07.29.2010

It's difficult to go wrong with Italian cooking and Il Mulino satisfies as comfort food in a pinch.

A little background on the scene before I dive into the food: Il Mulino is in a not terribly impressive area of Washington, DC -- Vermont Avenue, north of the McPhearson Square Metro. There are lots of businesses and law firms and things get quiet after rush hour. I've eaten at Il Mulino three times, each time for a business lunch. And each time, the restaurant was mostly empty, and the service slow. When I ate there on Thursday with five colleagues, we were one of four tables with customers.

Il Mulino first opened in New York City by chefs Fernando and Gino Masci. The restaurant's website boasts that it was voted best Italian restaurant in New York City for two decades by Zagat's. Il Mulino is located in 13 different cities, including Tokyo, Las Vegas, Aspen, and San Juan. My recent experience at Il Mulino doesn't motivate me to go back, but I am curious about the flagship in New York City.

Now, the meal: We started with a bread basket -- white, wheat, and seasoned bread crisps. The white bread was fantastic: it was so soft and tasted fresh. Along with the bread was a plate of diced eggplant that had been sauteed in olive oil and herbs -- it was delicious. The combination of the eggplant on soft, white bread was utterly satisfying. Perhaps I should have ordered another round and called it a day. But no.

I don't know how much time passed from when we ordered our main course (no one ordered an appetizer) but it was enough time for us to discuss a number of current events, a few work issues, and learn that our summer intern had gone skydiving the previous weekend -- this was big news. Two people at our table inquired about the mechanics of Facebook and we spent some time explaining that. I was surprised to learn that I had more Facebook friends than the summer intern.

The main course finally arrived. I had ordered the gnocchi in tomato sauce with mozzarella -- all of it appeared to have been glopped on to the plate. Several large balls of mozzarella were planted in the gnocchi and rapidly melted from the heat of cooking. As I ate, the mozzarella went from warm and soft to cooling and chewy.

The portion was large, enough for two people really. I had not eaten breakfast and was sure I was going to finish it all, but I didn't. You can go both ways with gnocchi: I've had gnocchi that didn't taste or feel heavy in the belly, and then there was this gnocchi at Il Mulino that weighed me down. I did not eat fast but I had to catch my breath a few times. I love tomato sauce with pasta and am partial to sauces that are runny, rather than thick. The sauce with this gnocchi was perfectly salted but the texture -- not runny or thick -- tasted as if a step had been missed or it needed to stew a little longer.

A colleague and friend (and also a curmudgeon) ordered mushroom ravioli, off menu. I thought that was a nice touch. I discussed with him my thoughts about Il Mulino and he remarked, "It's a shell of it's former self." He noted that the menu used to be robust and interesting, and claims Il Mulino has seen more customers. When the menu was passed around at the start of the meal, two people at our table noted that the menu was scaled back. I have nothing against simple, paired down menus, but the options at Il Mulino were limited.

Il Mulino
1110 Vermont Avenue, NW
Washington, DC 20005

202.293.1001

Rasika Restaurant 07.28.10

I don't think I've had one bad meal at Rasika. Located in the increasingly busy Penn Quarter area of Washington, DC, Rasika has provided since it opened a solid menu of intensely flavored Indian food that is inventive, but with a traditional Indian backbone.

On Wednesday, I ate at Rasika with T, who I met through a mom's group several years ago. We spent much of our meal discussing offspring issues and balancing work and life, which, if you must know, is absolutely chaotic right now. T loves Indian food and with her, I am also able to discuss another shared passion: all things Scandinavian. More on that later.

I started with garlic scallops surrounded by yellow rice, hints of curry leaves and poppy seeds. The scallops had a wonderful spicy kick. For my meal I had the chicken green masala, which also is spicy. Rasika's sister restaurant, The Bombay Club, has a green chicken curry which I once ordered and of which I was only able to take one bite. Too spicy for my Indian blood.

Rasika is in lovely space next to the Wooly Mammoth Theater on 7th and D. The decor gives off an Eastern vibe. But if you're looking for a quiet, intimate environment, you won't find it here. I don't know if music was playing at Rasika, but I do remember being able to hear everyone, all at once. Not an empty table in the house, which tells you how good the food is.

I'm a huge fan of tasting menus but have never tried the one at Rasika. Next time.

Back to Scandinavia: I've known for several years that T, like me, loves Scandinavia and reads Scandinavian authors. I told her I am reading "The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo," which she recently read along with the two volumes that follow it. The book started off a bit slow but I'm on page 182 and am really enjoying it. T mentioned several other Scandinavian authors, which I'll have to get from her later.

Rasika Restaurant
633 D Street, NW
Washington, DC 20004

202.637.1222