Pizzeria Paradiso: Part Deux (but not as good as “Hot Shots”) 01.22.2011

When my friend Kathryn walked into Pizzeria Paradiso for our lunch date, I held up my green notebook in which I keep restaurant / cooking notes.  The first item:  “Pizzeria Paradiso is dead to me.”  And that was before I had anything to eat.

Pizzeria Paradiso has a policy of not seating you unless your entire party is present.  I understand this, especially when it’s busy.  When I got to the restaurant for lunch at 12:30 p.m. on a Friday, the restaurant was maybe a third filled.  Empty tables everywhere you looked.  I was refused a seat.  I was ready to purchase wine and get the bill rolling, but no.  No seat for me!

So, I sat at the bar with a glass of the 2008 Monferrato Bianco and scribbled in my green notebook:  “Pizzeria Paradiso is dead to me.”

Kathryn arrived, we were seated. 

As you may know, this was my, “I’m-giving-Pizzeria-Paradiso-one-last-chance” visit.  I ordered my usual:  the Atomica with extra red pepper.  I also ordered some focaccia to start.  The bread was fabulous.  It really was.  I swirled it around in a puddle of parmesan cheese, olive oil, and salt, and it was fantastic.   I was starving, yes, but the bread was fresh and oh-so-fluffy.  And, really, what is better than fresh bread and olive oil? 

Kathryn and I went to college together.  We don’t see each other often – work, life, husbands, babies, living in complete opposite parts of town, etc. – but when we do, there is no small talk.  So while we waited for our pizzas – not too long – we got right into our lives – a wonderful thing to happen among friends.  

Our pizzas arrived and I have to say, the Atomica was remarkably better than my last visit to Pizzeria Paradiso.  No skimping on the ingredients and the crust was soft and crisp all at once:  perfect.  I had asked for extra red pepper but it still was not hot enough for me.  I kept sprinkling more hot pepper flakes, never enough to my satisfaction.  Why does my mouth have to be on fire?  Because I am Indian.

Final assessment:  Pizzeria Paradiso is not dead to me: it is in a coma.  I’m going to take a break.  I’ll go back, but not anytime soon.  Not being seated in a mostly-empty restaurant has me vexed.  We live in a world where customer service is crumbling, and I don’t like it.   I respect structure, and for the most part, rules.  I’m not asking for entitlement, but when there are numerous empty tables in a restaurant that does not take reservations, it really is not a big deal to let a paying customer take a seat.

What Happened to My Pizza? 12.31.2010

For the past 15 years, I’ve known one consistent pizza fact:  the Atomica pizza at Pizzeria Paradiso was the bomb.  It was.  It was meaty and salty and fiery with red pepper flakes.  A crust thick, soft, and crispy at once, and the tomatoes and salami and black olives crafted and baked to look like art.  Whenever I was with child, I would go there, find a corner seat so no one would see a pregnant woman devouring a large Atomica with extra red pepper flakes all by herself.  The babies demanded it – that’s how good the Atomica tastes.

The family and I went to Pizzeria Paridiso in Dupont Circle earlier this week for lunch and I was horrified to be presented with a pizza that lacked any element of what makes the Atomica a great pizza.  The crust was flat in flavor and texture – almost as if someone forgot the yeast or used the wrong flour.  The tomatoes, cheese, and other ingredients had smaller real estate on the dough – a clear sign of betrayal.    But to add insult to injury, there was less cheese and salami than usual.  It simply did not taste like the Atomica.

Eric is not a Pizzeria Paradiso fan, but indulges me from time to time.  He agreed the pizza was subpar.  Had I been alone I would have lingered and talked to the manager, but the two small children dining with us were about to lose it.  Super Boy was throwing food at people throughout the meal, which should have tipped me off.  He may be one-and-a-half, but he’s pretty brilliant.

For years I’ve tolerated the bad service at Pizzeria Paradiso because of the Atomica.  Before I end the relationship, however, I’m going to give it one more chance.  I plan to dine there in the next few weeks and will report back.  Because we all have bad days, right? I have them all the time.  I just don’t promise anyone consistent cheesy-meaty-pizza goodness.

The one bright spot to this week’s visit there was the wine.  I had a glass of the house white, which is the 2008 Monferrato Bianco.  Lovely.  It was neutral -- hence it being a house wine -- but if it had to lean anywhere, it was in the direction of a chardonnay.  At the restaurant, it sells for $6 a glass, and $20 for a bottle.  I’ve put it on the list of things to stock up on if I learn the world is coming to an end.